BESPOKE TAILORING FOR THE MODERN MAN - FITTINGS AVAILABLE UK & IRELAND

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The Only Way To Wear a Suit - Step 2

Patrick Cooper • Jul 22, 2019

The Shoulders

Suit shoulders and Armholes

THE SHOULDERS

The shoulders are the foundation of the suit jacket. They frame the face and are the first thing that catches the eye of the beholder. Getting the fit of your shoulders right is crucial, as they absolutely cannot be altered.

So how should the shoulders fit? The suit jacket shoulders should cover but not overwhelm your shoulders, in such a way that the material of the sleeve head just kisses the shoulder and upper arm but flows in an unbroken line from the shoulder to your wrist.

Now observe the way the sleeve falls from the shoulder. If you see any unsightly bulges of the underlying arm the coat is too small for you. If the shoulder extends too far beyond the underlying deltoid, it is too big. If you are unsure if the shoulders of your coat fit, ask to try one size larger and smaller to compare. Take your time. You’re making a substantial investment, so go slow.

This coat fits perfectly, covering but not overwhelming the shoulders and allowing the sleeves to hang naturally.


This man's coat shoulders are a little too small, 
resulting in a buckling shoulder and a unsightly bulge at the side of the sleevehead. 


The shoulders on this coat are too broad, 
resulting in a loosely fitting coat and unsightly drooping shoulder line.


 Tailor's Tip: Basically, there is an underlying architecture to your shoulder that must be respected. 
Observe the related diagram. If your shoulder were a mountain then the “acromion bone” would be the summit. 
Now slip on your suit jacket. Try cupping a hand over your own deltoid with the acromion dead centre in your palm. 
The shoulder seam of your jacket should be at the same position as the outer edge of your palm. Another way to calculate this is to place one finger to the outside of your acromion – two if your shoulder development is broader or the suit has a more built up shoulder. This is where the shoulder seam should meet the sleeve head. If you’ve got this fit right you’ve taken the first step down the path to suit enlightenment.

Step 3 will cover The Armholes
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by Patrick Cooper 13 Mar, 2020
Mastering the world of custom-made things can be an expensive education. So, in the interest of education, we’ve put together a few rules of the road on how best to emerge from the chrysalis of bespoke as a resplendent, worsted butterfly.
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by Patrick Cooper 14 Jan, 2020
No matter where you live, style and what is considered stylish is always evolving. It’s constantly being shaped and informed by a mix of media, history, and the clash of the fashion avant-garde against tradition.
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Some men don’t know how to wear a scarf because, quite frankly, they hesitate with an added responsibility. Let us convince you to give it a shot. The scarf is your winter best-friend because sometimes even the thickest of autumn fabrics could use a splash of, well, more wool (and colour). We’ll show you seven different ways to wear a scarf with a suit and topcoat with step-by-step instructions so your neck can stay warm and stylish all winter long.
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Ah, the office Christmas party – that one day of the year where getting blind drunk is both the best and worst thing you can possibly do and out-dressing your colleagues is an absolute essential.
by Patrick Cooper 11 Oct, 2019
Historically worn in Victorian times with a cape and usually made from tweed, The Ulster has since become synonymous with high-end fashion, still made from tweed but also from luxury cashmere or wool fabrics.
by Patrick Cooper 12 Sept, 2019
“I’d shop at big-and-tall stores, and it would feel like I was wearing a giant bag. So my usual approach was to forgo the jacket and wear a nice shirt and tie—and maybe a waistcoat.” New rule, guys: You should wear a jacket, even - no, especially - if you’re a little burly. If it fits right, it can give your body a whole new shape and revolutionize your confidence. 1. When a suit jacket fits right, it turns all your soft, round lines into sharp, angular ones. 2. Get a jacket made that hugs your shoulders, and has a slight pinch it in at the middle of your torso. That’s what turns your round midsection into a powerful-looking V. 3. Just because you need a broad jacket doesn’t mean you need a long one. It should just barely cover your butt. 4. The best clothes are ones that give a clear, clean, defined shape to the body. That puts suits, blazers, and sports coats right at the top of the list: these are going to “frame” the body and make it look neatly self-contained. 5 . The odds of finding something with a perfect fit off the peg are pretty low, so get to know a good tailor. Size doesn't matter at The Tailor Company - we can make suits and shirts to a perfect fit for any size or shape.
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